Julian Louie, the creative force behind Aubero, channels a lifelong embrace of storytelling into his menswear collections. Influenced by his parents, both writers, Louie approaches design with the mantra, 'create what you know.' This guiding principle has led him to infuse his personal journey and experiences directly into the fabric and form of his designs.
Since its inception in 2022, Aubero has rapidly evolved from a promising creative endeavor by an experienced designer—Louie honed his skills at Calvin Klein under Francisco Costa—into a celebrated name within New York's fashion scene. The brand's quick rise is underscored by Louie's recognition as an American finalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize and a semifinalist for the 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, marking a period of significant achievement and growth for the designer.
Louie finds increasing clarity with each passing season, likening the process to developing a more comprehensive language for his collection. As he prepared this particular lineup, the foundational advice to 'look at what's directly in front of you, what's genuine and personal' resonated deeply. This introspection guided him in shaping the collection's essence and direction.
A native of California, Louie intricately weaves the topographical memories of his childhood landscapes into Aubero's creations. His designs explore the concept of 'yearning for a place,' transforming nostalgic sentiments into tangible fashion. This approach marries past and future, seen in his preservationist use of antique textiles and scraps from previous collections, often encased in mesh for unique coats and trousers. The collection's hand-crinkled voiles and distressed cottons, alongside a crisp taffeta designed to beautifully wrinkle, imbue each piece with a captivating patina. The collection offers a broad appeal, featuring standout pieces like an exceptional overcoat and adaptable trousers that appeal to a diverse menswear audience.
The collection operates as a living autobiography, rich with Louie's mental souvenirs. Skirt-like wraps evoke the sight of Santa Cruz surfers changing by their vehicles, a towel clutched around their waists—a scene Louie describes with 'foggy eroticism.' His self-proclaimed 'material fascination' is rooted in his paternal grandparents, Chinese immigrants who operated a laundry on Long Island. This legacy of care for clothing and building a life around its maintenance is palpable in his work. A significant inspiration for this season was the rhythmic sound of a drum circle from his childhood, which he remembers as both 'grounding and transportive.' As Louie's prominence grows, his commitment to his unique vision remains unwavering, encouraging him to continue to forge his own path in the fashion world.