Bridging Cityscape and Wilderness: Etudes Studio's Evolved Aesthetic

Forging a Renewed Identity: The Genesis of the Collection's Vision

This season marked a pivotal moment for Etudes Studio as original founders Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry showcased their first runway collection since the departure of long-time collaborator José Lamali. Operating as a duo, they expressed a newfound clarity in their brand's identity. The result was a collection of garments that, while perfectly suited for city living, simultaneously embraced the spirit of the great outdoors. Egry noted their upbringing in the Alps and current Parisian residence as a constant source of creative tension, influencing their designs.

Artistic Inspirations: From Land Art to Wearable Forms

Demonstrating their knack for weaving artistic narratives into fashion, the designers turned to Land Art for this collection's underlying concept. This movement, which blurs the boundaries between natural environments and the creative process, served as a core inspiration. A photograph of artist Nancy Holt, styled in a dark hoodie and blue bootcut jeans from the 1970s, significantly influenced the collection's silhouettes and overall mood. Holt's iconic tubular concrete Sun Tunnels in Utah also played a role in shaping their aesthetic. Arbet lauded Holt's style as a perfect blend of elegance and practical utility.

Harmonizing Hues and Textures: The Collection's Material Narrative

The collection predominantly featured an earthy spectrum of muddy browns, clays, and beiges, complemented by pieces crafted from dark bleached denim and an abundance of comfortable pleated trousers. Egry emphasized the importance of striking a precise equilibrium between refined elegance, practical workwear, and more experimental, deconstructed forms. He highlighted their deliberate effort this season to converge outdoor workwear influences with softer, tailored elements. This workwear sensibility manifested in painter pants, utilitarian tool belts adorned with zippers, and hooded bomber jackets, aligning perfectly with the contemporary menswear trend leaning towards a post-gorpcore aesthetic, further accentuated by mirrored wraparound sunglasses.

A Circular Journey: Runway Presentation and Collaborative Artistry

The presentation space itself was transformed into a colossal spiral, a clear homage to Robert Smithson's famous spiral jetty in Utah. Models navigated this circular path through the audience, accompanied by live music produced using large metal canisters and other repurposed instruments by François Dufeil. A standout feature of the collection was the vibrant printed coats, shirts, and scarves, adorned with organic square patterns. These striking designs were a collaboration with Busan-born, Colorado-based artist Maia Ruth Lee, who created them by binding fabric bundles, painting them, and then pressing them onto canvas. The resulting motifs evoked aerial perspectives of vast natural expanses, transforming into a form of wearable rural cartography. While not revolutionary in concept, this collection offered a clear and compelling guide for dressing adaptably to any environment.