Copenhagen Fashion Week, particularly the Spring 2026 presentations, highlighted a significant shift in design philosophy, moving beyond conventional Nordic aesthetics. The focus was less on a singular, predefined style and more on an overarching methodology centered around the inherent qualities of fabric and the art of layering. This approach encouraged a deeper connection between the wearer and their garments, emphasizing thoughtful creation and the lasting impact of fashion choices.

Copenhagen Fashion Week: A Deep Dive into Textile Expression and Thoughtful Design

During the vibrant Copenhagen Spring 2026 Fashion Week, a profound exploration of textile artistry and sartorial depth unfolded. At the Skall Studio Spring 2026 presentation, designed by the talented sisters Julie and Marie Skall, a model gracefully traversed the runway adorned in an ensemble of three distinct shirts. This innovative layering, featuring a greenish-blue button-down beneath striped tops, with one casually knotted at the waist, exemplified a relaxed yet sophisticated aesthetic. The designers articulated their vision as evoking the essence of an off-duty dancer, dressing with an intrinsic presence rather than a performative display. This philosophy translated into numerous looks incorporating various layering techniques, from sweaters draped at the waist to trousers beneath dresses and multiple T-shirts worn together, all contributing to an effortlessly elegant and understated charm.

Concurrently, Maria Heilmanns, the creative force behind the Aiyu label, presented her Spring collection, also championing the abundant use of fabric. Heilmanns’ designs, far from being mere elevated basics, showcased a masterful blend of utility and exquisite craftsmanship. Her pieces celebrated the intrinsic beauty of materials, forgoing ostentatious embellishments. Through ingenious combinations, such as dual shirt dresses or a tank top over a long-sleeved knit of the same texture, she introduced a fresh tactile dimension to otherwise minimalist outfits. Heilmanns beautifully described her approach: “Each season, we craft foundational elements designed for endless layering and combination, fostering a sense of renewal. Our layered approach is a celebration, a natural embrace that feels like a comforting hug.” This resulted in a delightful abundance of fabric, with shirttails flowing from beneath T-shirt hems, creating a cocoon-like embrace of material.

In a compelling contrast, Cecilie Bahnsen's 10th-anniversary showcase compelled attendees to contemplate the act of undressing. Her collection featured ethereal sheer garments that subtly revealed sequin-adorned briefs beneath. As models turned, Bahnsen’s signature feathered gowns were seen attached to the backs of the sheer dresses, creating an illusion of being caught mid-disrobe, with the primary garment gracefully suspended like a cape. This Danish designer powerfully conveyed the profound difficulty of shedding clothes and, by extension, the cherished memories they encapsulate.

Taus, participating in the CPHFW’s prestigious New Talent Ones to Watch program, further explored themes of deconstruction and revelation. Their Spring Summer 2026 collection featured an upcycled nightgown deliberately styled to slip off a model’s shoulder, exposing a delicate lace bra. Co-founder Juho Lehiö explained, “We extensively discussed the literal act of dressing while developing the collection, aiming to portray that moment of undressing within a garment.” This styling choice instantly drew attention to what lies beneath, challenging superficial interpretations. Their broader collection drew inspiration from historical figures, such as Sinead O’Connor, and cultural references like Little Edie of “Grey Gardens,” who ingeniously fashioned skirts from knotted fabrics. This concept permeated Taus’s multi-layered collection, challenging conventional notions of clothing and prompting reflection on what defines a garment beyond a mere piece of fabric.

A foundational principle of CPHFW is its unwavering commitment to sustainability. Participating brands must adhere to stringent environmental and social criteria, encompassing everything from material selection to labor practices. This emphasis on conscious consumption aligns seamlessly with the longevity of each garment. Throughout the week, many impactful collections, spearheaded by designers who champion a deliberate crafting process and a deeper connection to attire, showcased fabric as their central element. In doing so, these visionary designers prompted a collective contemplation of what it truly means to wear something and, subsequently, to discard it.

This philosophy was particularly evident at Stem, another CPHFW Ones to Watch participant, whose fourth collection was aptly titled “Over and Under and Over and Under and Over and Under.” Drawing inspiration from the rhythmic motion of basket weaving, founder Sarah Brunnhuber created garments where the construction itself was a prominent feature, manifested in exaggerated, unraveling weaves of oversized threads. In one particularly voluminous, gathered dress, the distinction between thread and cloth blurred, inviting contemplation. Brunnhuber shared, “This collection began with me using studio scraps to weave a basket. In the process, I recognized that it represented weaving at a truly tangible scale. At its most elemental, it’s over and under, over and under, over and under.” This powerful statement serves as a reminder that, in the grand journey towards sustainability, all clothing originates from this fundamental, rhythmic interplay of threads, meticulously guided by human hands.

As a keen observer of fashion's evolving landscape, this year's Copenhagen Fashion Week offered a profound insight into a more introspective and authentic approach to design. The pervasive theme of layering, combined with an overt emphasis on the intrinsic nature of fabrics, signals a significant shift away from fleeting trends towards a more meaningful and sustainable engagement with clothing. It's inspiring to witness designers prioritizing longevity, ethical production, and the emotional connection we forge with what we wear. This commitment to conscious creation not only enriches the aesthetic experience but also lays a vital foundation for a more responsible future within the fashion industry. It suggests a future where clothing is cherished for its craftsmanship, its story, and its ability to truly "hug" us, rather than merely cover us.